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Lariam Night!

2008-02-02T16:19:00.000-05:00

For veteran travellers to malarial areas, the term "Lariam Night" has special meaning. Why? Well for the reasons listed below, we'd take our Lariam at night.

Personally, I've always found it quite entertaining - especially when mixed with a couple drinks to take the edge off. ;-)

Mefloquine is an orally administered antimalarial drug used as a prophylaxis against and treatment for malaira. It also goes by the trade name Lariam® and chemical name mefloquine hydrochloride (formulated with HCl).

The drug is taken once a week starting at least one week prior to entry into malaria endemic areas and continued for 4 weeks after leaving. Owing to the risk of neuropsychiatric disturbance, particularly disruption of sleep, UK advice is for people who have not previously used Mefloquine to start 3 weeks prior to departure; adverse effects usually manifest within one or two weeks, and so there would remain sufficient time to switch to an alternative drug.

Mefloquine may have severe and permanent adverse side-effects. It is known to cause severe depression, anxiety, paranoia, nightmares, insomnia, seizures, peripheral motor-sensory neoropathy, vestibular (balance) damage and central nervous system problems. For a complete list of adverse physical and psychological effects — including suicidal ideation — see the most recent product information. Central nervous system events occur in up to 25% of people taking Lariam, such as dizziness, headache, insomnia, and vivid dreams. In 2002 the word "suicide" was added to the official product label, though proof of causation has not been established. Since 2003, the FDA in the USA has required that patients be screened before mefloquine is prescribed. The latest Consumer Medication Guide to Lariam has more complete information.

In the 1990s there were reports in the media that the drug may have played a role in the Somalia Affair, which involved the torture and murder of a Somali citizen whilst in the custody of Canadian peacekeeping troops. There has been similar controversy since three murder-suicides involving Special Forces soldiers at Fort Bragg, N.C., in the summer of 2002. To date more than 19 cases of vestibular damage following the use of mefloquine have been diagnosed by military physicians. The same damage has been diagnosed among business travelers and tourists.

So if you've read this far, here's the interesting post script. I'm fairly certain that I should have my last Lariam Monday, February 4th. That would be four weeks since returning. But I seem to have taken my last remaining pill last Monday. Hmmm.

Considering the number of mossy bites, especially in Bamako our last two nights, the incubation period of the protozoan parasites, and the fact the half-life of mefloquine can be up to four weeks...the next ten months or so could be an interesting waiting game.

Don't worry - it's not contagious. :-)

Postcards

2008-02-02T16:12:00.000-05:00

Okay, if you are reading this and grumbling that you did not get a postcard this year...

- Only saw three post boxes anywhere along the route.

- Only one post office.

- Bought a whole stack of cards near the end in Tombouctou...so had good intentions.

Alas, this great pile is sitting on my office desk at home. I think a paltry three actually got posted.

So if one arrives in February with a Canadian stamp, don't be too upset. :-)

Discotheque

2008-01-28T22:16:00.001-05:00

Ah...our last night.

Dinner Spot Number One was a bit of a disaster. Good music scene, but after six attempts on the menu, no food to be had. Kim & I had splurged 15,000CFA to empty our pockets on a bottle of Bordeaux - what else to do? (Somehow airport shops at midnight did not seem likely.) We ended up walking down the street to the Bla Bla Bar.

The name alone was worth the visit, and it's the hippest space we saw in Mali. I especially liked the colourful plastic bowls taped together to be used as lamps, hanging at odd heights and locations throughout the place. Fantastic roast chicken, too!

No luck searching out Buffet de la Gare afterwards...Barou had never been, two taxi drivers hadn't a clue. Oh well - days of Rail Band gone by.

Our second taxi dropped us at an, umm, interesting "club". Let's just say NO pics were to be taken. As for the other entertainment, it seemed to be open mic night...Mali Idol, here we come. We left after one beer.

The Pirate Club was apparently the place to be...odd covers upstairs (we arrived to a striking rendition of "Mack the Knife") and a lively disco in the room downstairs. We opted to sit outside, get devoured by mossies (put that Lariam to work, I say - psychotic nights not to be for nought) and watch the rich Bamakoans (?) coming and going.

Video for your entertainment!

Le Rabelais

2008-01-27T21:15:00.000-05:00

I thought it fitting to include a photo of the very fine hotel in Bamako that was "home base" before and after the trip.

Yes, the pool is as stunning as it looks. A nice moonlight light helps.

On those hot, dusty days after hours wandering the streets of Bamako, it was a most welcome sight, let me tell you.

No surprise, but I still find it intriguing how one's frame of reference can change so quickly.

I arrived in Bamako on December 21 close to midnight. It was a hazy evening, and after the craziness of the airport my taxi staggered through the streets in a somewhat drunken fashion, bobbing and weaving for no apparent reason. (Avoiding police/army checkpoints?) The Rabelais was shut up tight, however a key with my name on it was stuck on the board. The room seemed quite fine. The next day, the city seemed like many other third-world (esp. African) cities, if perhaps poorer: lots of noise, chaotic traffic mixing petrol fumes and animal carts, dirt and tarmacadam, commerce of some sort on every corner. But a "small" city, by capital standards. Not a lot of "conveniences"...restaurants, plush commerce and the like.

After a fortnight, oh what a difference. Bamako was simply worldly, a veritable centre of nightlife and cosmopolitan treats. And the Rabelais? A stunning five-star treat, with a room to match. :-)

While pleased to return home, I know I'll be clinging to that sense of appreciation - and wonderment - as long as possible.

Then again, isn't that why we go?

Le Holgun

2008-01-26T19:37:00.000-05:00

The Holgun is a "famous" nightclub in Bamako. So famous, in fact, that Barou had never been.

Described as "slightly seedy" by LP, it is a sprawling place to catch Malian blues and other traditional music. Many westerners showed up for late Saturday night music, but there was also a large local contingent as well - always a good sign.

Quite a different feel from the local bar in Segou a few nights back...but eminently enjoyable. [The next night we attempted to find Buffet de la Gare, where the legendary Rail Band started (made up of actual railway workers). Alas, no taxi driver could find it. All was not lost, as we were still dropped at a house of ill repute for "music". Needless to say no pics of that very lcoal establishment! More of an "open mic" night, we didn't stay that long...]

On our way out of Holgun, sure enough who walks in but Toumani Diabaté. A master of the kora (21-string West African harp), Toumani Diabaté has brought the traditional music of his native Mali to the attention of an international audience with a series of well-received albums. Stooped over and walking with the help of a cane, you'd never guess he was only a couple years older than me. We had a quick chat, then he convinced us to join him back inside "for just one song". Alas, we had to leave to drop friends off at the airport, so I'm afraid to say the best I got was his tuning the kora... - sigh -

If you want to get a flavour of the music...click on the below video. (Never mind the visuals, you get a bit of the sound.)

Racing Sunset

2008-01-24T21:14:00.000-05:00

Sunsets and Africa.

A bit cliched, really. But the hell with originality -- I love them anyway.

On our long drive back into Bamako, the sunset was wondrous. Somehow as we barrelled down the road, it seemed to be full of intrigue, the trees playing character parts along the way. I never tire of baobabs, and spent a few moments with the window open desperately (in vain) trying to capture a bit of their spirit, in some strange avante garde sort of way.

Enjoy...

Segou Night Life!

2008-01-24T14:56:00.000-05:00

Well now what better thing to do after a couple long journey days?

If you know Neil, you know it will likely involve two things:

1) Drink

2) Night life of some sort.

This beautiful courtyard of our hotel was full of action - and tourists. Owned and run by a French family, it seemed "the" destination (not that there are many). However the overly-loud music and dancing, geared purely for tourists, wasn't quite to my style.

After a brilliant dinner at an Italian restaurant with two pet crocodiles (really, could I make this up?), three of us were in the mood for more - so Barou dropped us off at this little hole in the wall. "Nightclub" would be a bit optimistic a term. Let's say local bar - and indeed very local. The fact that us travellers had crashed the place was welcome in terms of beer sales, but otherwise we were pleasantly tolerated. (With a nod to Cuba as the "band" moved around from table to table at one point to garner a few bills - which we gave happily.)

Heather, Glen and I stayed for an hour or so. It was great fun watching the dancing, the row of children's heads looking over the wall at the action, and young girls who were too young to come in, so would dance around the door (where our table was) and sneak just over the threshold every once in a while.

This video was surreptitiously shot with my small Nikon sitting on the table. (Not quite the same caliber as the BBC crew there the same time.) You will either decide this sounds "fun" or hurts your ears. It may indeed be one of those "had to be there" moments. :-)

The Local - Sevare Style

2008-01-23T21:15:00.001-05:00

He he he.

A shot of Neil, in a local publican, enjoying a drink. And we wonder why it's a tad blurred? :-)

On our first night in Sevare - prior to heading down the Niger - Glen and I were itching for a night on the town.

Alas, despite Barou's best intentions, the town was dead. Far too cold for the locals, and too late: everything was shut up. No music from any of the discotheques. No dancing.

With Barou disgruntled by not being able to offer excitement, he asked if we'd like to simply find a "local" bar for a drink. Would we, indeed.

The place with no name (adjacent to the army base) was glorious. Cheap beer and rum, spicy brochettes for 100CFA, a telly out in the courtyard with a couple dozen people watching that evening's soap, faded 70s rock tapes warbling inside, and a healthy amount of feminine commerce walking about - with quick sojourns through the door in the bar.

We loved it.

We stayed some time.

This pic is on our return through Sevare, where as you can see we were fondly remembered by a few of the locals... ;-)

Sevare - Market Day

2008-01-23T21:12:00.000-05:00

Shopping, shopping everywhere!

This is the local "shopping mall" in Sevare.

A hive of activity, it's always fun to go to local markets where:

- It's all about commerce. If you're not buying, they're not interested.

- It's all about the locals. Pandering to visitors is non-existent.

My local market purchases were few, but they did raise a few eyebrows. I purchased some blocks of salt (always needed), and a small mirror I needed for my travel kit. My choice on the latter was between a pic of a Chinese tart or palm trees on the obverse - either way, very pink.

I think I'm the only one who will remember the desert and Mali when I see the palm trees. Oh well.

Stood on a balcony for some time watching all this action...

Roadside Wanderings

2008-01-23T21:08:00.000-05:00

Street life is a perennial source of entertainment.

That may sound culturally condescending, but the sights, the sounds, the details...all offer a jarring juxtaposition to what one sees "back home" [sic].

Random images: Dusty streets on a walkabout, local tailor and fashion house, our van being stopped by cattle, petrol "station".

I love the petrol station: people rock up, and literally get a litre bottle, pour it in their scooter, and go. These are a ubiquitous site in much of the developing world.

Brickworks

2008-01-23T20:57:00.001-05:00

Apart from the glorious backdrop scenery, the brickworks in the foreground is what caused me to snap this picture.

Go to the river bed, dig up the mud, shape it into bricks, let it dry in the sun. It can't get much simpler than that.

This is just outside Douentza.

Full Load

2008-01-23T20:55:00.000-05:00

The Niger, as with most great rivers cutting a swath through a country, serves as a lifeline.

Food through fishing, agriculture through irrigation - and most importantly, commerce.

Even as waters are still receding in the "dry season", boats plied the waters from Mopti downriver to Korioume, Gao and beyond.

Lac Debo more than trebles in size, opening great channels where the big ships can ply their trade for a few precious months.

Lucky for us, our wee boat was a little roomier than these - which, if you're enterprising, you can catch a ride on all the way down river to Tim.

SALT!

2008-01-23T20:54:00.001-05:00

Salt is a big part of what made Tombouctou a large trading city in eons past - and it is still important today.

Traditionally carried on camels from salt pans in the Sahara, when driving south to Douentza we saw a donkey caravan of about 20 animals, all heavily laden with salt.

The first picture here is from Korioume, the port on the river near Tombouctou...much busy-ness loading up several pinasse ready for onward travel up and down the Niger.
Salt blocks here are along the port in Mopti.

Quatre par Quatre

2008-01-23T20:54:00.000-05:00

The long drive out of Tombouctou was indeed loooong.

Apart from waiting in Korioume for two or three hours, the drive was relatively quick - inasmuch as "non-stop".

I did not check average speed in the back of our 4x4, but the whole event was like an extended visit to Six Flags. It's one of those few times that I remember what those handles are for - and need them. We tossed and bashed and knocked up against each other endlessly, sun beating down through the windows all the while. Good thing we weren't worried about being too "familiar". My 4x4 had Heather in the front, and Glen, Kim and I in the back. Kim was our patient for this trip, feeling exhausted and more than a little poorly. I'm amazed she managed to sleep during the whole drive - but sleep she did. The three of us decided there's a little feline in her, somewhere. ;-) [Luckily after one good night's sleep she was right as rain.]

This stop was about half-way - while only about 200km, it really felt much longer. Most of the way we were off-road, and all of the bridges were washed out.

At one point our two drivers had a great screaming match, which woke everyone up out of their reverie. Who would have thought: road rage about cutting someone off, when there are no roads and very few other vehicles to be seen!

Heather took a picture when we stopped due to a tyre blow-out, feeling she could just as easily be back home in the Australian outback.

Well, except for the donkey train of about 20-30 animals, all heavily laden with large salt blocks.

Our lunch spot in Douenzta also served as a campground, and being able to strip down and have a quick shower was a delight after all that dust and sand.

In retrospect, I am quite glad I did not end up taking the flight out of Tombouctou...it would not have had the same sense of "journey".

Korioume

2008-01-23T20:53:00.000-05:00

This is the port town on the Niger about 20km or so from Tombouctou.

Our long day started off with an immediate halt: one ferry broken, so a long queue, despite the early departure.

Like any port, even this small one was a hive of activity - just a few pics here.

There was something just "so" about seeing a ferry come with a load of camels in the desert..we all sort of looked at each other and grinned at the incongruity.

Once our ferry was in, we spent a good 30 minutes cramming as much as we could on. Every centimetre was used; our 4x4 was locked in, and Glen cautiously crawled out the window, thoughts of the proverbial overloaded African ferry sinking in his head. Smart move, no doubt.

Flamme de la Paix

2008-01-23T20:50:00.000-05:00

No signs of tension in Tombouctou, really.

This rather bizarre monument, on the northwestern outskirts of town, is the spot where the ceremony marking the end of the "last" Tuareg rebellion, in March of 1996.

Over 3,000 weapons were burnt in a great bonfire.

Today the monument has a pile of the old guns embedded in cement at the base; marble tiles have fallen all over and it's positively in a state of disrepair. Sort of like the peace - considering the Canadian and Australian government warnings about "do not travel to Tim" whilst we were there.

Warnings notwithstanding, we found nothing but pleasant people and smiles in Tombouctou.

Random Timbuktu

2008-01-23T20:49:00.000-05:00

Tombouctou or Timbuktu - that is the question.

Generally I used the latter, but quickly changed over to the former, French spelling - which is of course common in Mali.

We especially like the "plastic bag tree" - a common sight in Mali, and much of urban Africa.

I know the sunset shot is boring, but I've included it for purely self-indulgent reasons. :-)

It was the last night in Tombouctou, and after a hike back along the outskirts of town I stood on the balcony of Hotel Colombe. As I watched the sun set over the Christian cemetery, the call to prayer echoed out across the sands.

Save for the want of a drink, it was a rather idyllic moment. ;-)

I'm one of those people who are a fan of the call - though best when performed live, a rarity these days.

New Year's Eve II

2008-01-23T20:47:00.000-05:00

Well now the booze starts to flow - right?

I've not been a big one for New Year's celebrations for many years (inasmuch as celebration cor celebration's sake), but there are some glorious ones I remember. Most, it seems, are in Africa: Morocco (dancing on a rooftop to Thompson Twins in a djeleba), Tunisia (Jiffy Pop on a humongous gas stove, sparklers with hotel staff that could not be 're-lit', hash brownies on the shores of Lake Malawi lying next to a dog...)

This one added to the collection of the bizarre. I won't go on at length about the foursome who crashed our camp...but the German who went on about his big knife (insert evil Shining laugh here) or the Dutchman who was so cooked on some cornucopia of drugs that he could not make it back to his camp 50 meters away provided plenty of entertainment, and a touch of nervousness.

The beer was finished quickly, and after I emptied the bottle of rum (note: local version of the infamous Belizean 'Panty Ripper') the harsh gin (tonic long gone) was all we had. Troopers we were, we soldiered on.

Good call getting fireworks in Sevare; not so good call tossing some of them into our campfire. It did wake Glen up though - which was good as we were starting to miss his good humour (and feeling envious about his two-hour catnap).

All in all - a fun night.

New Year's Eve

2008-01-23T20:46:00.000-05:00

After finally making it to Tombouctou, we headed off on New Year's Eve for a night in the desert.

Well, truth be told it was about a 5km walk on the camels - not exactly an adventurous journey. At night, the lights of the town could easily be seen in the "distance".

But that wasn't really the point. I enjoy camels. As an animal, they have such personality, and the more you observe them, the more you feel a Picasso-esque tinge on the animal world.

It was fun to finally be here, be away from a town - albeit not that far away - and spend a last night enjoying the plentiful stars of the desert. With all the light pollution of cities, you simply do not see such bountiful displays of light. Alas, I was lacking a tripod so do not have any great night-time sky shots. Next time, perhaps.

Last two photos courtesy Heather.

The Southern Cross

2008-01-23T20:28:00.000-05:00

I did not purchase a southern cross pendant/necklace - something the Tuareg peddle every chance they get.

This little shop sign shows many of the different designs - each represents a different local tribal area. It struck me as interesting.

Also, I thought it very exciting that the manager of our hotel in Tombouctou was Moby Dick himself! :-)

I

Tombouctou Signs

2008-01-23T20:27:00.000-05:00

We especially like the last one: "big" bazaar. :-)

"The Well"

2008-01-23T20:25:00.000-05:00

There are competing sotires of how Tombouctou got its name...but this is one that gets a lot of traction. No doubt because of the oh-so-convenient placement of this well in a small (but very interesting) ethnographical museum.

A scholarly work dating from 1655 by Es-Sadi claims that the town owes its name to an amalgam of the Tuareg word tin (well) and a woman by the name of Bouctou. She was the caretaker of this primary well when the town was an important oasis stop on the edge of the desert. So in effect, the name is a simple translation of "Bouctou's well". And yes, this picture is of her well. While I must admit to being greatly skeptical, I warmed to the site as we wandered about. The truthful location or not, I liked the attempt at preserving history...and if it IS the well, doing so in such a quaint fashion makes me smile.

La Mysterieuse

2008-01-23T05:56:00.000-05:00

Not to give the impression that modern-day Tombouctou is desperately trying to capitalise on its storied past, or anything...

:-)

This isn't carried through to the post office, though.

All Aboard!

2008-01-23T05:37:00.000-05:00

For those travelling on a tighter budget than me - thank goodness! - here's one bus to get yourself out of Tombouctou.

A hard, long, slow journey.

The sandy town is of course surrounded by desert - not the classic "dunes", but an expanse of scrabble as far as the eye can see...

Do not worry: if you go north, soon enough you'll be in dune-land.

Talk of Slaves

2008-01-23T05:34:00.000-05:00

Imagine the surprise when walking through the city with a local guide discussion turns to slaves.

The dwelling you see in the first picture were referred to as the home of "slaves of the Tuareg". Former? Well, an evasive answer seems to indicate that while slavery per se may not be openly active, most definitely a stronge caste-like cultural system is still prevalent.

In reality, though, while codified it's not altogether differnet than that in many supposedly "enlightened" countries of the west.

The last picks are just a few blocks further down our rambling walk: the "main square" in front of one of the mosques.

Doors

2008-01-22T22:16:00.000-05:00

While not as colourful of those in North Africa (eg. Tunisia), I still very much liked the entryway architecture of Mali.

Here in Tombouctou much more "Arabian" in design and feel than, say, the carved wood ones of Dogon.

Window is from Djenne - but seemed to suit the series.

Donkeys & Cattle

2008-01-22T21:17:00.000-05:00

Animals, animals, everywhere.

Certainly here they are working animals: pets are rare. (Once, in Tombouctou, I saw a family of cats on the roof in a hotel courtyard. They slyly avoided photographic evidence.)

While African Ankole breed of cattle are generally found more to the south, even here you can see the impact of American Holsteins taking over. (A rather controversial situation - see New York Times magazine January 27, 07 for more info.)

The cattle market was abuzz with action; donkeys are everywhere pulling their weight...and then some.

We Arrive!

2008-01-22T19:36:00.000-05:00

After three days, cold nights and a lot of wind along the way...we arrive in Korioume.

An eerie drive through the causeway, home fires burning in small braziers on either side of the road...slums, but "desert slums".

Our hotel is glorious. Heck -- it's a hotel! The Dove. Hmmm.

Most important job is to find a beer. Dinner would be good too...but we all enjoy a drink.

We're in Tombouctou/Timbuktu. Otherworldly with a hazy evening dust, we all wonder what awaits in the morn. No doubt a "disappointment" - but truly this town of faded glory now offers more in concept than place, I'm sure.

We'll see...

Hippos!

2008-01-20T20:00:00.000-05:00

Yes, we saw hippos!

Though only once, in our boat trip down the Niger. All of a sudden we came upon this group, minding their own business.

Niafunke

2008-01-20T19:58:00.000-05:00

Niafunke is the town where Ali Farke Toure was born, lived, and died just a bit over a year ago.

More than anyone, he has probably brought Malian music international acclaim [I'll get competing arguments here, I'm sure], and raised the profile of the possibility (much-debated) of American blues originating from slaves sent over from West Africa to pick cotton. It's a terribly dusty and fairly decrepit-looking town, but a great chance to stretch the legs.

If you are interested in Ali Farke Toure, "Talking Timbuktu" with Ry Cooder is probably the easiest introduction for those not used to Malian music. Other recommendations include "In the Heart of the Moon" and "Savane", or the clasic "Radio Mali".

Sunset & Sunrise

2008-01-20T19:53:00.000-05:00

What would a collection of pictures be without the requisite sunset/sunrise snaps?

Along the Niger, it was breathtakingly calming...

Along the Niger...continued

2008-01-20T19:48:00.000-05:00

Local mosques, Bozo fishermen, heaps of birds...if you slept, you'd surely miss something.

Alas, the striking black & white Niger Kingfisher [name?] was too quick for me to catch on film. Lots of egrets, though.

Washing

2008-01-20T19:45:00.000-05:00

Everything is washed in the Niger. People and clothes, of course...but also bikes and goats - amongst much else.

Life on Our Pinasse

2008-01-20T19:17:00.000-05:00

While there was much activity along the river, life on our boat was at a decidedly slower pace...

Along The Niger - Day One

2008-01-20T19:13:00.000-05:00

So after much argy-bargy about whetehr Intrepid will let us go to Tombouctou (they won't, but Cheche will) we're pleased to finally be in our very own pinasse for a three-day journey down the Niger.

We leave late morning from Mopti, and the life along the river is a constant swirl of activity. A few select photos follow.

Getting a Shave

2008-01-20T19:09:00.000-05:00

What would a trip overseas be without a trip to the barber?

Wasn't the most comfortable shave - but it was close, it was needed, and the price was right. (Free, as it turned out!)

Mopti at Sunset

2008-01-20T19:01:00.000-05:00

Our first night in Sevare, we were tired and wanted a shower...but Barou advised otherwise.

Good call - we raced to the port in Mopti just in time to watch the sun set.

The below are just a few images we enjoyed - along with our beer at the Bozo Bar.

The other entertainment at the Bozo were the many crap sellers. Quite a system, though. Whilst the six of us sat at our table, Mr. Necklace would descend upon us. Once he had done his business, Mr. CD would come...followed in turn by Mr. Bracelet, Mr. Better Necklaces and even, briefly, Mr. Strange Sculpture or Masks.

I did a roaring trade in CDs, having a few of them already at home and letting everyone know which ones I thought were best. (And picking up a few more, of course.) Alas, he never offered me a commission.

Necklaces for the girls from six different tribes was my other useful purchase. Very civilised, all this shopping whilst not having to move from my beer - or the sunset.

Watermelons

2008-01-20T18:55:00.000-05:00

Watermelons, watermelons everywhere.

In fact, I think I have eaten more watermelon in the last fortnight than in the past 20 years.

On a hot, dry, dusty day....mmmmmm.

More than the watermelon farms (they just seem to reproduce in enormous quantities near road checks, as at left) what you see are expansive fields of gourd farms. Hundreds of large orbs, waiting to fulfil their life as the "everything" tool and carrier. Water jugs, watering cans, shea butter containers (smelling rather rancid in the raw - a souvenir that was left in the hotel), cutters, signs, toys....

Agriculture

2008-01-20T18:49:00.000-05:00

What a surprise after the dusty hiking to find a sudden expanse of green at the top of the escarpment.

Onions are one of the largest crops in Mali, and this small valley is farmed by a women's cooperative. What's important to note is that in most areas, the water is all carried in large gourds, and then spread out over the crops. Not a lot of irrigation ditches.

The last two pictures are of millet, which is a grain you find everywhere. In every town along the route, in tiny hamlets along the river, invariably you'd see women pounding the millet in these containers. (No, never men.)

Fox Fortunes

2008-01-20T18:38:00.000-05:00

On the top of the escarpment, just outside Bongo, we came upon this area where fortunes are read by mystics and foxes. How, you ask?

Well the man sitting inside the stone enclosure is carefully setting up small twigs and pebbles, which you can see more closely in the second picture.

These are left out overnight, and when the foxes come by, if they walk inside the marked area, naturally they'll scatter stones willy-nilly, and knock over the sticks.

If you're an expert like him, you can then "read" fortunes from the subsequent patterns.

People come from around the region with various questions and concerns, looking for nature to help them get an answer...

Along the Falaise

2008-01-20T15:06:00.000-05:00

Hands up everyone who loves the baobab...

Last Day Hiking

2008-01-20T14:46:00.000-05:00

Our final climb up the escarpment...

Bonbon! Cadeaux! Bic!

2008-01-20T14:45:00.000-05:00

Almost universally friendly, insatiably curious - children run to greet you, or at the very least throw you a wave, everywhere.

While the last stats I saw claim Mali to be the forth-poorest country on the planet, what I did not see much evidence of was endemic malnutrition. Two distended bellies in all my travels, and many, many happy faces.

Not to deny most everyone's existence in the countryside or along the Niger was based on subsistence farming - and not to glamourise the realities of the hard-scrabble life of the majority of the population.

But constantly being joked with, or walked down a path in the hands of several children, was rather uplifting.

Villages on the Hillside

2008-01-20T14:40:00.000-05:00

While "Dogon Country" is a vast generalisation in this region [there are many subsets], the architecure of the Dogon villages is similar.

The square granaries with round thatch roofs (which you see being constructed here - they are always raised off the ground to help reduce vermin), single-hinge carved doors, remains of Tellem graves high up on the cliffs.

I could have dozens of images of these days of hiking posted...

Caiman & Granaries

2008-01-20T14:29:00.001-05:00

I think this is the loniest caiman I have ever seen...

Christmas Day Dancing

2008-01-20T14:28:00.000-05:00

Alas, I'm still not used to the "digital" world and completely forgot that both my cameras can take video with sound...so the magic of this Christian celebration is rather muted.

It may have had somethign to do with the millet beer as well? ;-)

Lots of chanting and dancing, a great way to start our morning as we headed down the hill, then back up with the singing following after us off the hills.

In the space of 1km we came upon this small mud church and a mosque - in a predominantly animistic region.

And yes, that is good 'ole "Baby Jesus" on the skirt....

Dogon - Day Two

2008-01-20T14:24:00.000-05:00

Hiking the Bandiagara Escarpment was exhilarating.

The heat was brutal, but as it's dry season it wasn't too bad - you got used to it. As long as we had our three-hour lunch breaks...we were fine. :-)

The normally understated LP had this to say about the region:

"In this era of top-ten-places-to-see-before-you-die lists, Pays Dogon features prominently, and deservedly so. Mali's stand-out highlight encompasses the homeland of the fascinating Dogon people, arrayed above and below the huge Falaise de Bandiagara, which extends some 150km through the Sahel to the east of Mopti. The landscape is stunning, and the Dogon people are noted for their complex and elaborate culture, art forms and unique houses and granaries - some clinging to the bare rock face of the escarpment. The best way to see Dogon Country is on foot."

I'd say.

These are but a few pics from the second day.

Hogon, Tellem & Sacred Places

2008-01-20T14:22:00.000-05:00

These three men are sitting next to a traditional village meeting place near the top of one cliffside village. The Hogon (roughly, spiritual chief) of a village would bring people into the low-ceilinged rock shelter to settle disputes. As those in disagreement would have to crouch down, the theory goes, fights would be curtailed in the confined space.

The Tellem predated the Dogon in this region, and evidence of their graves and hoems along the cliff face abound along the way.

Climbing Down The Escarpment

2008-01-20T14:20:00.000-05:00

This is coming down from Dourou, where we spent our first night "camping".

Inverted commas as this involved sleeping in a tent on a rooftop. A little bizarre...it's only due to mossies that we bothered with the tents.

Tonight was "Lariam Night" - always good for a bit of excitement.

Needless to say the dry season means dust, dust and more dust. The sun is relentless and while the 34C dry heat is not so bad, we generally would stop for two or three hours in the middle of the day in a small village along the escarpment to escape the worst of the sun...and refresh with a beer and lunch.

Back Across the River

2008-01-20T14:09:00.000-05:00

Onward we head...next stop Bandiagara for hiking in the Dogon region.

Along the Streets of Djenne

2008-01-20T14:07:00.000-05:00

Crossing the Bani River

2008-01-20T14:05:00.000-05:00

If it can walk, be hoisted, lifted or crammed onto a pinasse...it can make it across the river.

Djenne - Roof Scenes II

2008-01-20T14:01:00.000-05:00

Lines and shadows...

Djenne - Roof Scenes I

2008-01-20T13:59:00.000-05:00

We especially like the goats. :-)

Djenne - Market Day

2008-01-20T13:53:00.000-05:00

A bustling day at the market...

Needless to say I have dozens of market pictures, from various towns.

Always a source of delight.

Djenne - Grande Mosquee

2008-01-20T13:49:00.000-05:00

Djenne is located on an island in the Bani River - even during the dry season we needed to ferry over (during a full-moon night) to reach it.

Founded around 800AD, this Sahel town is now most famous for the Grand Mosque you see here - a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Built of mud, for a week each year after the rainy season the entire town comes out to help rebuild and restore bits that have simply washed away.

The wood beams you see protruding are not merely decorative, for they help provide critical structure to the building.

Alas, as infidels we were not allowed inside...but we walked through the meandering streets of the old village surrounding it, and onto a rooftop opposite for some fantastic views.

Going Local

2008-01-19T18:55:00.000-05:00

Imagery interlude...

Crossing the harbour at Mopti.

Sitting in a rest-house during hiking having a well-deserved beer.

At the top of the Bandiagara Escarpment after a few days of most excellent (and bloody hot) hiking.

Pics courtesy of Glen and Heather.

Bicyle Carts

2008-01-19T13:14:00.000-05:00

Ubiquitous in West Africa, these two-wheeled push carts are everywhere.

Buying the firm that makes them is likely a good investment. :-)

I found them intriguing from a visual standpoint, parked along the side of the road looking like crosses from some great war. Or serving as lounge-chairs for workers escaping the heat of midday.

More than donkeys, these carts were used in every city and town to transport goods, piled high with everything from salt to flour to coal to plastic buckets.

Bamako

2008-01-19T10:43:00.000-05:00

Bamako is a dusty, hot capital city. It attacks you immediately.

For that, I was thankful. Good to be back in the thick of things.

Modern(-ish) buildings and corrugate shanty-town roofs.

Clogged paved roads and bumpy dirt tracks.

Cars and heaps of batetred green sotramas jostle amidst pull-carts and donkeys.

These are just a few images...

The Group

2008-01-19T10:29:00.000-05:00

On trips such as this, the group can make a critical difference.

In Mali, we won on two fronts. First, a small group: only seven people total. Second, we were all well-travelled, so the rigours of such a trip did not really phase anyone. We all got along splendidly, and with the other six representing six different countries, there was little inclination to slip into "back home" discussions (thank goodness).

Truly -- Francisca, Glen, Harriet, Heather, Kim and Richard helped make the trip so enjoyable. (If by some chance any of you are reading this...cheers for your good spirits.)

I'd share more "group shots", but it seems the few pics I have are all around a table drinking beers... ;-)

Le Campagnard

2008-01-19T08:10:00.000-05:00

WARNING!

Do not - repeat do not - go drinking with Russian spies on Night One of a trip.

Especially when you have a long bus ride the next morning.

Mali 2007/08

2008-01-19T08:08:00.000-05:00

Finally - the trip is here. After much argy-bargy, cancelled trips, switched operators, changed flights...West Africa beckons.

The trip I'm on is called "Journey to Timbuktu", operated locally in Mali by Cheche Tours, but booked through Intrepid Tours in Melbourne.

While the title plays on the cache of the fabled city, in fact there's much more to attract one to the country.

So over the next few entries I'll try to share some of the experiences...more through pics than text, no doubt. (I'm not a veteran blogger.)

At any rate, come along and join me....

Qufu

2007-04-15T11:57:00.000-04:00

This is a test blog - so ignore the formatting.

Am trying to better establish how I can have entries as "links" on the main page only, so the home page is not completely cluttered. Also fighting issues with placement/formatting of images within an entry, and maximum of five images per? Working with a template, of course, options are limited -- and I do not feel inclined to create my own widgets in HTML. My programming days are long behind me.

These are from Qufu, China -- recent article soon to be published.

Looking south from entrance to the Forest Cemetery.

The exalted sage himself.

One of hundreds of stele on the temple grounds.

Gateway arch to the temple.

The map dates from 1912, and if the Temple of Confucius. He was born in Qufu, and this small town remains a pilgrimage site for many Chinese.

Moonrise Over Antarctica

2007-04-15T11:24:00.000-04:00

In collecting images for Antarctica, selecting the "iconic" proves oddly difficult.

Ice, seals, penguins, birds: the stereotypical abound.

However their abundance does nothing to diminish their power. A stereotype it may be on one level - and at the same time shattering on the next.